How to install a distributor?!?!?!

[86firebird]

I took my distributor off yesterday, and when I put it back in my car wouldn't start!!! I have a 1986 2.8 MPFI. The haynes manual says to put the cylinder #1 at TDC and poit the rotor between number one and number six firing position. This is so incerdibly vague. I was wondering if any of you people knew a better way to do this?!?!?! Any help would be aprreciated!!!!

[92SonomaST]

Actually it is that simple. You need the number one cylinder coming up on the compression stroke at TDC or top dead center.

Then you install the distributor so the rotor is pointing between the number 6 and 1 Towers closer to the number 1 side.

The important thing is the compression stroke. There are two times the piston is at TDC. the exhaust stroke is one of them.

You can tell the difference by pulling number one plug. Crank the engine until you feel pressure coming out of the plug hole. Then line the timing grove on the balancer with the 5* before mark. Drop the distributor in.


You can test for close enough to start easily enough.

1. Snug the dist down but leave loose enough to allow moving it.

2. Connect your timing light.

3. Turn you key on.

4. move the distrubutor until the timing light flashes.

5. tighten the distributor.

6. Start the engine.

7. Set the correct timing.

[86firebird]

If i do so and the car still misfires when trying to start, what else could that be? Valves not adjusted right? SO #1 has to be at Top dead center, then I connect the timing light to wire going to cylinder 1? then when the light comes on that means the car will start?

[92SonomaST]

If you do like I mentioned the engine will start. The exact timing will still need to be set. If all you did was remove the dist and replace it, you should not have missing and backfiring.

I have used that method everytime I have a dist. out or starting a fresh engine.

Your valves could only be out of adjustment if you removed the rockers and put them back on.

There is a procedure in the manual on how to pre set the rockers.
I did it on my old 82 S10 and never had to readjust them.

[86firebird]

i did actually remove the rockers and install new ones with new pushrods, but i adjusted them just how the manual told me (0 valve lash + 1/2 turn ect)

I am going to try your technique as soon as i get home. I hope to GOD that i don't have to take my intake manifold, valve covers and all the MPFI stuff off again!!!!!

So i point the rotor between cylinder 1 and 6, more towards 1, then i put my timing light on sparkplug wire #1 and advance or retard my distributor until the light goes on, right? (all this done at TDC)?

I hugely appreciate your help!!

[92SonomaST]

You should try and position the rotor and number 1 tower so you are not quite at number one when you put the cap on and tighten down.

This way you slowly move the distributor to advance and stop when the light flashes.

What else did you do, besides pulling the manifold and changing the rockers?

If you changed the cam, the lifters may need to pump up. Until the lifters pump up the engine will run rough. You may need to hold the throttle open for the first few minutes.

[mikelv]

So i point the rotor between cylinder 1 and 6, more towards 1, then i put my timing light on sparkplug wire #1 and advance or retard my distributor until the light goes on, right? (all this done at TDC)?

I think we may have a misscommunication here. When we say between #1 and #6 postion we are not talking about the cylinders we are talking about their position on the distributor cap. And it is where it ends up after it is in not where it is when you start to put it in as it gets rotated as it goes into position

[86firebird]

no, i didn't change the cam. I just changed the rockers and the pushrods. i set the valve lash the way the haynes manual says so.....


I am hoping i dont need to adjust my rockers again!

[92SonomaST]

Good Luck, let us know how it goes. I will try and check back around 9 or 10 tonight.

Good catch mikelv. I think he meant the towers.

[86firebird]

my car would still start if my valves weren't adjusted right. it would run like crap, but it would still start, no?

i will try this method out pretty soon, as soon as i get home, and i will let you guys know.


Once again, thanks for all you guys' help!!

[GordSipko]

For the engine to start, each cylinder needs air, fuel, compression and ignition. If the valves aren't adjusted correctly, compression will be zero. You could do a compression check on all cylinders. That would tell you real fast if the valves were adjusted correctly and which cylinder if they aren't.

[86firebird]

well, i thought maybe my timing was off 180 degrees, so i took out my dist. ( WHAT A PAIN, I WANNA KILL THE DESIGNER WHO SHOVED IT ALL THE WAY DOWN THERE) and rotated it 180....... still no luck.... without removing my valve covers, how am i supposed to be sure my engine is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, and not the exhaUST stroke?

[GordSipko]

without removing my valve covers, how am i supposed to be sure my engine is at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke, and not the exhaUST stroke?

Did you read the first response in this thread? Especially the part where it says

Crank the engine until you feel ...

[betterthanyou]

See what happens when you dont mark stuff.

[92SonomaST]

[quote]You can tell the difference by pulling number one plug. Crank the engine until you feel pressure coming out of the plug hole. Then line the timing grove on the balancer with the 5* before mark. Drop the distributor in.