98+ OVERHEAD CONSOLE INSTALLATION (READY for FP POSTING)

[MLevy]

98+ OVERHEAD CONSOLE INSTALLATION
I'll try to link pictures from my album as I go along in the write-up. I'll try to make the part name a link to the picture of the part. To my knowledge, this will only work in a 98+ truck with a console from a 98+ truck, for the full trip computer like mine. I believe it can be done with an older console if it only has the temperature and compass (but who wants just that if you're going to all this trouble?). S-series truck and S-series console only. I would have to check with Neal to see about using different years, models, etc..

Tools needed:
• 7mm ¼ drive socket
• Ratchet or socket/nut driver (looks like a screwdriver handle)
• Philips-head screwdriver
• T-15 Torx screwdriver
• Pliers, preferably needle-nose
• Long, skinny slot-head screwdriver
• Duct tape
• A knife to cut the headliner. I used a Leatherman PST multi-tool. A VERY sharp box-cutter should also work.

Parts needed:
• Overhead console, seen on the left in the picture. Price on this varies, depends on where you get it from
• Bracket, seen here on the right You should ask for this if you get the console from a junkyard, I did and they sent it along. The item is also available from GM and includes the compass sensor. The bracket is part number 15106819 and can be had for under $100 from a couple of online GM parts dealers.
• 2 Screws, GM part number 11515401 (they’re special screws)
• I used a harness specially made for this job, PM me on the site to ask me for contact info for the gentleman (Neal Whitaker) making these. He also sells the GM clip (GM part number 01638575) for above the windshield and the temperature sensor (GM part number 15971127) needed to make that function work. It’s just as easy to get them from him, keeps all the bits in one box. You can also wire this yourself following directions in a PDF found on other sites.
• I used 3-M wire-taps from Digikey to tap wires for the lights. Neal MAY have this part worked out in version 1.1 of his harness, so I’ll leave out part numbers for now.

Before starting, un-do the negative battery cable. Don’t worry about your pre-sets if you have a factory radio, somehow it holds them, but the time goes bye bye.

OK now, on to the actual work, like getting all the parts and tools together wasn’t ENOUGH work.

Remove the dash faceplate, there’s some work involved here:

• Take out the hush panel above the driver’s feet. I think there’s 4 screws (all 7mm) to remove. While you’re there, take out the screw on the next black panel over, it’s gotta come out anyway in order to take out the next panel up. In all, there are 5 to remove at this step. Disconnect the remote entry brain at this point also, it’s actually attached to this panel. Also, take out the 2 screws holding the OBD connector to this panel, it allows you to slip the connector through and take the panel right out of the truck. I used the bed to store all the stuff I took out.
• Next up is the knee bolster trim panel. Picture is with the panel removed. 4 screws and some spring clips and it pops right out. One screw is a little difficult to remove if you have the remote tape deck like I have, I just used a ratchet instead of the nut driver. Make sure the e-brake is set, then release the release cable from the pedal assembly, it should slip out through its hole in the dash, it’ll become clear once you look at it, this area is VERY hard to take a picture of with a simple film camera. This allows you to totally remove this panel for more room. The extra screw removed above allows this panel to come out; this is all clear once you look at the dash.
• NOW we get to the surround (tedious, isn’t it?). Taking off the knee bolster trim panel reveals 2 screws, seen in the pic in the previous step. Take those out, take out the lonely screw that’s vertical in the center of the dash pod. Make sure the e-brake is still set, put the key in the “unlockâ€Â

[Dougofthenorth]

Vote to post to Main Page

COMMENT:
I think having the links to the pictures instead of the actual pictures on the page is an issue.
The reason being that, if in the future, the link location changes, the pictures will be lost.
Tech Editors or Admin will have to decide on what to do.

(Submission edited August 6, 2004)

[MLevy]

At this moment all images are hosted in my gallery on this site. I posted them as links in this write-up to save space, it can be changed if it gets moved to the web page, and edited as needed so they end up in the right location.

[betterthanyou]

Are you familiar with HTML or do you have a HTML editing software?

If so format the article to include text and pictures. Use tables to make the layout.

If you are unable to edit it PM me or another TECH editor and we will be able to take care of it.

[betterthanyou]

Hold off on this one. I am going to edit it so the pics show in the article and I will upload to the main gallery. I will post a link to the finished works when done.

Thanks.

[betterthanyou]

Ok its ready to go now. Someone give it a once over and let me know of any mistakes. I will host it on my site for now due to the formatting.

Picture links are already set to go.
http://members.shaw.ca/betterthanyoutoo ... nstall.htm

[MLevy]

Found a couple spelling errors. One in the header, it's "written based....". You missed the d. Also, right next to the first picture see should be seen.

Would it be possible to thumbnail the pics? Full-size pics will show more detail. It's OK if we leave out the 2nd PDF, maybe it is a little redundant. I can keep Neal's PDF where it is, it's a free host and I have more than enough space there. Thanks for making it a little more web-friendly...

[betterthanyou]

Thumbnails I can do but its not all up to me... I fixed the spelling

Any Tech Editors please let us know if we should thumbnail or not? The full pics are 640x480. I half sized them so they fit better.

[92SonomaST]

I like it. Ready for front page.

[MLevy]

Uh, sorry to throw a wrench in the works here, but I have a SMALL addition. When I saw this harness for the second time, helping someone do this install, I discovered he has NOT gotten the lighting worked out.

Using the wire taps from www.digikey.com I wired the courtesy lights like this:
Black wire on the mirror harness goes to the white on the console.
Orange on the mirror harness goes to grey on the light harness.
White on the mirror harness goes to black on the console.

I used the wire taps made by 3M, item numbers 920074-01-ND and 920042-02-ND. One number is for the tap itself and one number is for the spade connector that mates with it. I had to order a pack of 10 of one, so I ordered 10 of the other also.

Sorry, I don't know what wire does what, I just know it works. I labeled each wire on the console end so I could remove the console if needed.

[Dougofthenorth]

TESTED 1st PIC - then deleted it - see all below

[Dougofthenorth]

OK I ADDED THE PDF PICS TO OUR TECH GALLERY

I don't know if you want them resized (larger) or not - let me know

PAGE 1


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ALSO MLEVY WANTS TO ADD:

Using the wire taps from www.digikey.com I wired the courtesy lights like this:
Black wire on the mirror harness goes to the white on the console.
Orange on the mirror harness goes to grey on the light harness.
White on the mirror harness goes to black on the console.

I used the wire taps made by 3M, item numbers 920074-01-ND and 920042-02-ND. One number is for the tap itself and one number is for the spade connector that mates with it. I had to order a pack of 10 of one, so I ordered 10 of the other also.

[MLevy]

Where did this How-To go? I looked at the front-page and couldn't find it?

[SKiZZ]

How do I get ahold of Neal Whitaker to get a harness and brackets sent to me? Thanks.

[MLevy]

He won't sell you the brackets, but he does offer the temp sensor as an "option" on his harness.

Check the PDF I posted a link to, his e-mail is in there. I know he was on a hiatus from building them for a little while, he moved, not sure if he's back to making them yet...